I show how to install my new replacement power supply in the Emulator II synthesizer.
Emulator II power supply available here:
Synthchaser E-Mu Emulator II Replacement Power Supply 100-240VAC
Analog synthesizer repair, parts, sales, and innovation. I buy broken synthesizers!
I show how to install my new replacement power supply in the Emulator II synthesizer.
Emulator II power supply available here:
Synthchaser E-Mu Emulator II Replacement Power Supply 100-240VAC
CEM and SSM chips are analog integrated circuits (commonly called “chips”) used in many synthesizers.
Founded by Doug Curtis in 1979, CEM developed a family of signal processing products for electronic music synthesizers and audio equipment. In 1988, Doug migrated the company to become OnChip Systems. In 2016, it was announced that the CEM3340 VCO had been remanufactured by OnChip using the original design, the CEM3340 RevG. Other manufacturers manufactured copies of the Curtis Chips as well since the patents had expired. Cool Audio produces the V3340 and the V3320. AS ALFA RPAR released the AS3310, AS3320, AS3330, AS3340, AS3345 and AS3360 in DIP and SMD packages.
Solid State Music, later known as Solid State Microtechnology for Music or simply “SSM,” was founded by Ron Dow and John Burgoon in 1974, with assistance by Dave Rossum of E-MU Systems. The company originally produced synthesizer chip sets, and provided bare boards for the hobbyist to experiment with early SSM chips. In an unusual pairing, they also produced S-100 bus computer cards, including a Sound Synthesizer Card. SSM was acquired by Precision Monolithics in 1988, who was in turn acquired by Analog Devices in 1990. New SSM-badged IC’s continue to be introduced by Analog Devices, but bear little resemblance to the original SSM line. Several early members of the SSM team reformed in 2017 as Sound Semiconductor to develop audio IC’s in the spirit of early SSM products.
Claudio from Doctor Mix has been busy repairing and modding his Roland TR-808 drum machine and asked if I could help design some mods for the hand claps. In this video I show you my approach to designing mods, and give a little introduction to RC time constants, which are used in all analog synthesis circuits.
See and hear the mods I came up with in action in the new Doctor Mix video here, and be sure to subscribe to the awesome Doctor Mix channel!
Here are the instructions for the TR-808 Hand Clap mods I designed. I’ll keep this up to date with any feedback received.
NEW VIDEOS: I’ve got a new video finished up, and I’ll be making a brief appearance on another YouTube channel that’s much more exciting than my own. Both videos go live Friday May 7, will post links then. For now, this screen grab is the only clue.
ARP QUADRA MIDI: Over the last couple of months I’ve spent a lot of time developing a really awesome MIDI adapter for the ARP Quadra. Unfortunately now that the design is done and the prototype has been perfected, we find ourselves in a global microchip shortage and I can’t get it produced! If you’re interested please be sure to let me know. When microcontrollers become available, I’ll try to grab enough for those on the waiting list.
SUPPLY CHAIN ISSUES: Besides the Quadra MIDI, the microchip shortage has put my ARP Omni MIDI adapter out of production. I have 1 unit left and no ETA when they can resume production. Also, our replica slide potentiometer manufacturer is having manufacturing delays due to COVID, and we are backordered 2 months on replica ARP sliders.
LED SLIDERS FOR MORE SYNTHESIZERS: Because I’m backordered on regular sliders, I’ve made LED slider sets available for more synthesizers, including the ARP Odyssey and ARP Avatar. These come pre-assembled for less than the cost of “Lumina” which comes unassembled. There are multiple sliders on each assembly so your sliders come out straight and parallel, as opposed to some fiddly hard-to-assemble adapters people have been using.
ARP QUADRA WITH MIDI FOR SALE: I’ve got a very nice, restored ARP Quadra for sale on my website. Besides being meticulously restored by yours truly, it’s equipped with the prototype MIDI adapter, so it may be the only ARP Quadra in the world with MIDI! While at one point not too long ago I had 5 ARP Quadras, this is the last one I’ve got. So if you had been considering a Synthchaser ARP Quadra for your studio–this is your last chance!
Synthchaser Precision LED Slider Upgrade Kit for ARP Odyssey
In a lot of my videos, I use this little operational amplifier tester I built. By popular demand, I’ve decided to make a short run of them available. In this video I explain how my op amp tester works and how you can interpret its results to determine the mode of failure of many op-amp IC chips with standard pinouts.
In this short video, I explain what an op amp is and how a Norton Op Amp is different, and then show a little test fixture I made to test these specialized IC Chips that I run into frequently while repairing vintage synthesizers.
Full Application Notes for the LM3900:
Vintage synths are cool. But a lot of the time, they’re nasty inside. Dust, spilled beer, rodent piss, even pubes… Everything gets inside. In this video I show you how I wash dirty synthesizer circuit boards in the sink.
Warning! Dirty synthesizer pictures in this video!
I was working on an ARP Omni 2 and came across a really bad soldering job. Someone had replaced the gating capacitors, but all of their solder joints were “cold solder joints”. What’s a cold solder joint? Well, first let me explain what a good solder joint is. With a good solder joint, both the pad on the circuit board and the leg of the component you’re soldering are sufficiently clean (both clean before soldering and from the flux in your solder) and hot for the solder to form a solid bond between the two parts you’re soldering. A good solder joint looks nice and shiny, like my work on this ARP Omni 2 below:
Now that we understand what a good solder joint is and how it’s made, we can understand that a “cold” solder joint is made when the two metals are not sufficiently heated or clean enough for the solder to truly bond between both metals. In a cold solder joint, the two parts may be stuck together, but may not have good electrical contact, and since the solder is really just a blob sitting on the surface of the pad or component, it’s very prone to crack or break off. You can typically spot a cold solder joint by its dull appearance, like I saw in the ARP Omni 2 below:
On the closeup photo you can really see the dull solder blobs just caked onto the pads and leads of the capacitors. And to no surprise, several of them just cracked off when I was going through removing and replacing all these capacitors.
Hopefully this explains what a cold solder joint is and how to spot one. To avoid making them yourself follow the following Synthchaser tips:
If you find yourself melting the solder on the tip of the soldering iron, or “painting” solder onto the component from a blob on the tip of your iron, you’ll probably wind up with a cold solder joint.
Hopefully this helps, please comment if you have any other tips to avoid cold solder joints that I missed!