We kick off the New Year on the Synthchaser channel with troubleshooting and repair of this ARP Pro/DGX Mk I, which is the same as the ARP Pro Soloist with the exception of having pushbutton switches for voice selection instead of toggle switches. This Pro/DGX has no output at all, so together we troubleshoot and repair it, and in the process I explain how one of the least understood circuit boards in the synthesizer works.
Author: synthchaser
Don Lewis’ Original ARP Soloist Repair Part 2 – Synthchaser #160
We continue the repair of Don Lewis’ original Model 2700 ARP Soloist. Among other challenges, we run into a big problem–the 4030 Violin voice submodule is dead. It’s encased in epoxy and no schematic is available, but will that stop Synthchaser? I think not…
- The Ballad Of Don Lewis DVD: https://amzn.to/3t2Nbw9
- My multimeter: https://amzn.to/3Ltgqi3
- My oscilloscope: https://amzn.to/3rm6b8d
Don Lewis’ Original ARP Soloist Repair Part 1 – Synthchaser #159
My friend Don Lewis was a brilliant musician and engineer. Before he built his LEO (Live Electronic Orchestra) system, he used the original, Model 2700 ARP Soloist for leads. His ARP Soloist has been sitting unused since the 1970’s and in this video I begin to repair it so it can be donated to a cause Don was a part of. If there is enough interest, I will continue this video series.
The Ballad Of Don Lewis DVD: https://amzn.to/3t2Nbw9
My multimeter: https://amzn.to/3Ltgqi3
My oscilloscope: https://amzn.to/3rm6b8d
ARP Explorer I Functional Demo – Synthchaser #158
A brief, off-the-cuff run through that shows the features and sounds of the ARP Explorer I. No planning or editing because I think the ARP Explorer I is so obscure that this will be one of my least viewed videos. Prove me right or wrong.
The ARP Explorer I (Model 2900) was ARP’s first non-preset single oscillator synthesizer, pre-dating the Axxe and the Solus. It includes the same 4027-1 Voltage Controlled Oscillator module found in the ARP 2600, and the same 4034 Moog Ladder Filter Voltage Controlled Filter module found in the ARP Pro Soloist.
Triple ARP Explorer I Synthesizer Repair – Synthchaser #157
I’ve got 3 broken ARP Explorer I synthesizers, and I show you my approach to repairing and restoring them. The ARP Explorer I (Model 2900) was ARP’s first non-preset single oscillator synthesizer, pre-dating the Axxe and the Solus. It includes the same 4027-1 Voltage Controlled Oscillator module found in the ARP 2600, and the same 4034 Moog Ladder Filter Voltage Controlled Filter module found in the ARP Pro Soloist.
- Strain Relief Bushing Pulling Tool: https://amzn.to/3EE74fy
- My desoldering tool: https://amzn.to/3PikaEf
- Deoxit needle applicator: https://amzn.to/3PgiAT5
- Deoxit pot cleaner: https://amzn.to/3sUGX1r
- My oscilloscope: https://amzn.to/3rm6b8d
00:00 Intro to the Explorer I
05:10 Look Inside / Disassembly
12:13 Keybeds
13:35 Circuit Boards Depopulating & Cleaning
16:38 Cleaning Switches & Rotary Pots
21:24 Capacitors, ICs & Sliders
27:37 Bench Testing, Repair & Calibration
Testing the Oberheim Two-Voice (TVS-1) and Four Voice (FVS-1) Power Supplies
I had a customer outside the Continental USA with an Oberheim Four Voice with a power supply that failed. Both filter capacitors “popped” and the synthesizer stopped working.
Because shipping the whole synthesizer such a distance would be expensive and risky, we decided to send just the power supply, and the Programmer module which was also in need of repairs before the power supply gave out. Besides the two large filter capacitors, I also replaced the two tantalum capacitors and the two LM723 voltage regulators. I also tested the diodes that serve as the bridge rectifier.
While obviously these power supply capacitors need to be replaced, I wasn’t convinced that the root cause of the problem is actually on the power supply board. Particularly because both capacitors popped, not just one, and the +18.5 and -18.5 rails are regulated independently. The transformer and the pass transistors for the power supply aren’t on this board.
So when the board arrives back home, it will need to be hooked up in phases, testing each part of the power supply before connecting it to the load.
Step 1 – Test the Transformer & Fuse
The first step will be to check the AC voltages at the transformer secondaries. If we get the proper AC voltages here, the power wiring, fuse, and transformer are all good. The transformer has a single primary winding that accept the 120VAC line voltages, and two secondary windings. I didn’t measure the AC voltage of the secondaries on any of the FVS’s I was working on, but I’d imagine the secondaries would be around 30VAC.
To check this, with our multimeter in AC voltage mode, we first measure across pins 1 and 2, and then 4 and 5 of the Molex connector that plugs into the right side of the power supply PCB. It doesn’t matter which color lead we put on the pins. If each winding measures around 30VAC, we’re good to move onto step 2.
Step 2 – Test the Power Supply & Pass Transistors
The LM723 voltage regulator is in a DIP package and by itself cannot regulate large loads. The maximum current of an LM723 DIP is only 150mA, clearly not enough juice for a massive Oberheim FVS. So rather than configuring the power supply so all the current to the load goes through the regulator, the supply is designed so the LM723 regulates the pass transistor, through which the current to the load is flowing. In the FVS the pass transistor is a 2N3054 transistor in a TO-66 package, capable of a continuous collector current of 4A, or a power dissipation of 25W. These transistors are mounted on the back of the metal synthesizer chassis by the power inlet, with an additional small aluminum heat sink.
Even though I essentially replaced all the components on the power supply PCB, without the rest of the synthesizer I was unable to test the customer’s pass transistors. So the power supply may still not be working properly. So the next step will be to plug in the connector for the transformer secondaries, which is color coded white, and the two molex connectors that go to the pass transistors. These are color coded blue (for the negative power rail) and red (for the positive power rail)
With these connected, the regulated DC voltages can be measured at the black connectors on the left side of the power supply PCB. We will want to check these voltages first, before connecting anything to those connectors to make sure the power supply PCB and pass transistors are OK.
Let’s check the +18.5V rail first. With our multimeter in DC voltage mode, we place the black lead on pin 2 or 3 of any one of the black connectors (these are the middle two pins), and we place the red lead on pin 1 (the right-most pin). The voltage should measure close to 18.5V. This power rail is adjustable, so if your reading isn’t close to 18.5V, adjust the trimmer (the lower trimmer is the trimmer for the +18.5V rail) until you get about +18.5V.
Next, check the -18.5V rail. With our multimeter in DC voltage mode, we place the black lead on pin 2 or 3 of any one of the black connectors (these are the middle two pins), and we place the red lead on pin 4 (the left-most pin). The voltage should measure close to -18.5V. This power rail is also adjustable, so if your reading isn’t close to -18.5V, adjust the trimmer (the upper trimmer is the trimmer for the -18.5V rail) until you get about -18.5V.
If the supplies can be dialed into around +18.5V and -18.5V, respectively, the power supply is safe to connect to the synthesizer’s modules and we’re good to move onto step 3.
Step 3 – Test the downstream load
Many times people will bring me a synthesizer that they erroneously feel has a power supply problem. One or more power rails in their synthesizer are lower than they should be (e.g. +15V at +1V), so they figure it has to be a problem with the power supply. The problem is they are measuring these power rails with the load connected. A short circuit in the downstream load can cause the voltage regulator to drop out the voltage to prevent an over-current situation. So now that we’ve tested the TVS/FVS power supply with no load, we now need to test it with the load.
To do this, we will power off the synthesizer, and one module at a time, connect it to the power supply, and recheck our DC voltages as per Step 2. If you’re confident that your modules are OK, you can plug them all in at once and check. But the one at a time method is what I would use to check a synthesizer in an unknown status.
If all modules are plugged in and the DC supplies are still around +18.5V and -18.5V, your power supply is good, and you can try to dial in the +18.5V and -18.5V rails a little finer. The +18.5V and -18.5V are regulated further in each module down to 15V and -15V, which is used for the majority of the circuitry, so this calibration isn’t critical, but still try to get it as close as possible.
Another Oberheim Four Voice Synthesizer FVS Repair – Synthchaser #156
Last year I did a three part video series repairing an Oberheim Four Voice. Now I’ve got couple more Four Voices in for repair, and I thought we’d check one of them out together. In this one we repair a problem with the polyphonic keyboard assigner module.
Triple Moog Micromoog Repair – Part 2 – Synthchaser #155
Micromoog Mayhem concludes as we repair and service the other two. Unit #2 has a number of issues including a messed up oscillator, major distortion after warming up, and like the one in our last video, Modulation occuring even with the mod wheel down.
Triple Moog Micromoog Repair – Part 1 – Synthchaser #154
It’s Micromoog Mayhem! In this video we repair the first of three Micromoogs that are in for service and repair. This one powers on but has no output.
Moog Micromoog Demonstration – Synthchaser #153
I give a functional demonstration of the Moog Micromoog, explaining its many features. The Micromoog is my favorite of the single oscillator vintage Moogs, and hopefully by the end of this video you’ll be able to see why.
00:34 Oscillator
05:08 Noise Generator
05:59 Voltage Controlled Amplifier and Contour Generator
10:06 Voltage Controlled Filter
17:07 Modulation